Souq Al Zal is the oldest surviving traditional market in Riyadh, generally said to date back to the very early 20th century. It takes its name from zal, a word for carpets, and rugs are still stacked high in its shops — alongside oud and incense, bishts (the fine cloaks worn on formal occasions), sandals, daggers, brass coffee pots and a lively trade in antiques and bric-a-brac.
The souq sits in Deira, the district that was once the whole of walled Riyadh. A couple of minutes’ walk north is Masmak Fortress; to the west, a broad paved plaza — Deira Square, also called Al-Safat — is bordered by the Imam Turki bin Abdullah Grand Mosque and the Qasr Al Hukm, the governor’s palace. The whole area was rebuilt in a modern Najdi style in the late 20th century, in honey-coloured stone with crenellated rooflines.
Top things to do at Souq Al Zal & Deira
Browse the carpet and antique lanes
The covered alleys are divided loosely by trade. The carpet dealers will happily unroll half the shop; the antique stalls mix genuine old Bedouin pieces with reproductions, so buy what you like rather than what you are told is rare.
Watch the open-air auction
In the late afternoon, usually after the Asr prayer, sellers walk through the crowd in an open area of the souq calling out bids on second-hand goods — anything from old radios to swords. It is the most entertaining sight in the market.
Smell the oud and incense
Perfume shops sell oud oil, bakhoor (scented wood chips) and burners. Shopkeepers will waft smoke over your clothes for you to try; good oud is expensive, and prices vary enormously with quality.
Take coffee on Deira Square
Cafés now spill onto the edge of the square. Sit with a cardamom coffee as the sun goes down and the call to prayer rises from the grand mosque.
How to get to Souq Al Zal & Deira
- By metro: use the Qasr Al Hokm station; the souq is a short walk away.
- By taxi or ride-hailing: ask for Souq Al Zal or Masmak Fortress; drop-off is on the edge of the pedestrian area.
- On a tour: the old-Riyadh walking tours include the souq with a guide who can help with bargaining — see the tours page.
Insider tips
- The best hours are roughly from 4 pm until late evening. Many shops close in the early afternoon.
- Bargaining is expected for carpets, antiques and souvenirs. Stay friendly and be ready to walk away.
- Carry some cash for small purchases, although most shops take cards.
- Ask before photographing people, and avoid photographing women.
Best tours & tickets for Souq Al Zal & Deira
These top-rated experiences are the easiest way to see Souq Al Zal & Deira:
Walking tour from €29 Old Riyadh Walking Tour: Al Masmak Fortress, Souq Al Zal & Saudi Coffee
A short, sociable walk through the oldest part of the city with a local guide: the fortress where modern Saudi history began, Deira Square and the covered lanes of Souq Al Zal, with a pause for cardamom coffee. Inexpensive, easy to fit into an evening and the best introduction to old Riyadh.
- The story of 1902 at Masmak Fortress
- Carpets, incense and antiques in Souq Al Zal
- Saudi coffee and dates along the way
City tour from €133 Riyadh: Masmak Fort, Souq Al Zal & Murabba Palace Tour
A fuller day in historic Riyadh by car, linking the old quarter around Masmak with King Abdulaziz’s palace at Murabba and the park-like historical centre around the National Museum. A good choice when you would rather not juggle taxis, opening hours and the midday heat yourself.
- Masmak Fortress and Deira Square
- Souq Al Zal with a guide
- Murabba Palace and the King Abdulaziz Historical Centre
Walking tour from €28 Walking Through Old Riyadh: Al Masmak Palace & Hidden Stories
A two-hour storytelling walk around the old centre, led by a local. Lighter on shopping and stronger on anecdotes than the other walking tour on this list, with perfect scores from several dozen reviewers when we checked.
- Masmak Fortress and the streets around it
- Stories of the old walled town
- Small group with a local storyteller
